Ruth is absolutely thrilled to be a finalist at the 2025 Wartski Brooch Competition! One of just five finalists, her elegant, asymmetrical brooch tells a striking story.
Life breaks through the rocks: A brooch by Ruth Mary Jewellery
My story is not a straightforward one. Facing many significant challenges, I overcame so many things to be where I am - and who I am - today. I wanted to capture how creativity for me springs up around obstacles, finding a way through even the most overwhelming difficulties.
My brooch is created as two pieces in one: a pair of stud earrings that can be added to the brooch, or worn as standalone pieces.
The inspiration is one of new life breaking through the rocks - represented by the cultured baroque pearls. The buds of new life that spring up around the ‘rocks’ also form the claws holding the cultured baroque pearls in place.
Here's the full story:
Life is never symmetrical
I was diagnosed with narcolepsy at the age of 21 while pursuing a chemistry career. At age 22, my husband became my full time carer during a time when I was collapsing over 30 times a day. There have been many obstacles (or rocks) since then, but a life full of creativity has sprung up around it.

That's why the asymmetrical baroque pearls were the perfect choice for this brooch, rather than the perfectly shaped pearls we're so used to seeing.
Creativity springs up
The gold buds that form around the asymmetrical pearls draw the imperfect and unexpected shapes of the pearls into the whole creation.

It seemed only too fitting that a brooch inspired by my story, held an element of my signature style. The tiny buds were hand stitched in thread, before being cast in 9ct gold. This is the only part of the brooch which did not use recycled materials.
The final brooch, complete with its detachable stud earrings, is a picture of how creativity is not crushed by obstacles, but rather springs up around them.
The Wartski Brooch Competition

You can view Ruth's brooch, along with the four other finalists' creations, in London at Wartski's showroom, from 2-6 June. The brooches will be judged by BBC Antiques Roadshow expert Joanna Hardy. The winning design will be included in Wartski’s forthcoming exhibition, ‘From Function to Fantasy: The Brooch’.